I'm not going to describe every little function to do up every nut and bolt,
as these should only be fitted by experienced technicians/engineers. This guide
is only intended to help others through the mysteries of the hand-brake bracket,
plus a few other pointers.
Remove all trim from around the hand-brake, then remove trim off the
hand-brake lever. Under the trim is a cut away which holds a trim release catch
Close up of the above trim below. Unfortunately I can't remember which way I
poked and prodded the catch to get it to release, but at least you can see below
what your looking for. I was blind when I struggled!
Finish off removing the trim and hand-brake lever from its original bracket
as shown below
Next you need to fit the supplied lowering bracket for the hand-brake lever,
otherwise you won't be able to swivel the seat, even with the hand-brake off (in
its lowest position)
The slots slide on to the existing male studs on the seat base bracket, and
the holes on the opposite side are used to fix the bracket to the hand-brake
I found there was some miss-alignment in the bracket slots, thus it wouldn't
fit on to the seat box bracket. Therefore I had to widen the one slot as shown
by the arrows below.
The bracket should fit the hand-brake lever as shown below.
When the lowering bracket and hand-brake lever are assembled, it will be as
shown below. You'll also need to adjust the hand-brake cable by tightening it up
on the adjuster screw indicated by the arrow. The vehicle I worked on, didn't
have enough adjustment by the lever, so additional tensioning was required
elsewhere on the hand-brake system.
Another point on the bracket slots is that I found they were deeper than
required, so don't expect to have the male stud at the bottom of the slot.
After getting the hand-brake fixed, the original trim also needs
modifications. I don't have a before shot, but you can see in the photo below
that extensive cutting took place on the fixed trim to get it to sit somewhere
near where it looked okay. Before fitting the trim back on to the moving handle
of the hand-brake, you'll also need to cut bits off the bottom of that as well!
Like most of the trim on the seat, the trim on the back of the seat box also
needs cutting down. The original back trim as shown below still shows the
original lip that covers a gap in the top of the seat box frame.
Like all the trimming that was carried out, the back trim was also cut back
using a fine blade in a bench circular saw to leave it as shown below.
Unfortunately the removal of part of the trim, also removes the fixings to
retain it in position on the seat box, so I drilled and tapped some fresh
fixings to retain the trim securely in position with the use of some stainless
steel button head cap screws.
With all the seat trims shortened (by about an inch or so), the rear seat box
trim re-fixed and the hand-brake trim back together, you should have something
like the following photo.
Final point. Do make sure the top and bottom fixings don't foul on each other
when the seat is rotated. On the one I did, the studs from the bottom fixings
need filing down, plus the fixings for the top are too long, so they will need